Cape Town: Emerging From The Past

South Africa's second most populous city, Cape Town, is also the continent's largest tourist destination, and the home of the 2010 FIFA World Cup. The name South Africa conjures strong reactions from many people: apartheid, Mandela, rich vegetation and wildlife, crime, and music all figure strongly into preconceived notions about the country.

Addressing the giraffe in the room, it's true that Cape Town, like the rest of South Africa, is struggling with a violent crime problem.  The intentional murder rate in Cape Town itself is somewhere around sixty per 100,000 people, which is far higher than the average murder rate in the USA as a whole. To keep things in the proper context, however, note that Cape Town's murder rate is currently roughly on par with that of New Orleans, a city that is visited by millions of tourists per year. If you fear violence in South Africa, apply the same logic you would apply to New Orleans: become aware of the areas which are objectively safe, avoid areas which are known to be unsafe, and exercise good situational awareness.

The vast majority of Cape Town's visitors return home without ever becoming victims of crime. Even in the midst of its worst-ever murder rate, Cape Town pales in comparison to Richmond, Virginia and Washington D.C. during the 1990s, when the intentional murder rates were between 70 and 80 per 100,000 people. Just as in those cities, the majority of violent crime occurs in the poorest neighborhoods, and the victims are almost always the poorest citizens themselves.

Owing to the crime problem, home security is a huge focus in South Africa. Most middle class residents live in walled enclaves which are often patrolled by private security. It is a matter of some debate as to whether these precautions actually help to reduce crime, but it is likely that any apartment which would meet with western standards will be secured in this manner to some extent.

With the stereotypes and safety concerns dispensed with-- what about the good? First off, South Africa is one of the economic success stories of the continent, and thus has far better infrastructure than many other places in Africa. South Africa is one of the few places one can see lions, elephants, leopards, rhinos, zebras, and meerkats, all in their natural habitat. South Africa is filled with raw, unvarnished natural beauty. Cape Town's immediate surroundings are full of world-class vineyards. Basically, Cape Town is a jumping-off point to explore a place full of sights and experiences that most people only read or dream about. Moreover, it's an easy point of access for the entire continent of Africa, as inexpensive flights leave from Cape Town to most surrounding nations daily.

South African cuisine is unique throughout the world, influenced by Dutch, British, Malay, Indian, and indigenous traditions. Curries and chutneys exist alongside sausages and smoked meats. Bunny chow is one uniquely South African food- a hollowed-out loaf of bread filled with meaty curry.

Private health care in South Africa is of high quality, and private health insurance schemes are available to residents. Public health care access is improving, but that is at the cost of quality of care. Health care is one area strongly affected by South Africa's apartheid past. Hospitals were racially segregated and mostly built within white communities, and a huge gulf in health care access by black South Africans persists today.

It is reasonable to feel some trepidation about visiting or living in Cape Town. The country is facing real problems, and the future is uncertain. Someone who has never visited South Africa should plan on spending a reasonable period visiting to test the waters prior to making a permanent move.  With that said, the thoughtful expat looking for both value and adventure can surely find it in Cape Town.